Forget the broomstick for London Fashion Week!

DevilIssieThe last time I saw Toby Howarth it was Hallow’een.  The seven years old ingenuous angel asked, “Haven’t you come on your broomstick?’ It wasn’t difficult to guess the sort of thing his aunt and mother had been saying about me!

I’m superstitious about wearing black when visiting children, so I expect he thinks I’m at least a white witch!

Because I’m going to see him again, en route from London, I’ll be clad in shades of blue from head to toe.  I did plan on wearing ‘Le Casual de Marithe Francois Girbaud’ in gris et noir for the Burberry A/W show in Kensington Gardens.

Must try to get to Sassoon’s on  way to the 2pm Fashion bash.  I need to have a look for the Anne et Valentin ‘Objet 3’ spex now necessary for the little blue-stockinged teacher rather than the post-Chanel, Parisienne, fashion writer!

If Christopher Bailey spots me at the show, in close-up, maybe his next collection will be the look this strange little narcissist can adopt whether as witch, blue-stocking or fairy godmother in glasses.

Rushing off to Dorset means I’ll miss the Isabella Blow at Somerset House but here she is, above left, in a scene from ‘FASHION MEDIA PROMOTION  the new black magic,’  with another wonderful maverick Anna Piaggi! I will fantasise a meeting with them on the train!

More Audrey Hepburn than Bridget Jones – for Burberry babes off to the office!

A transparent vinyl jacket embellished with light-reflecting crystals. Cut with a clean silhouette, the design features hand-applied gemstone motifs in a geometric placement.
A transparent vinyl jacket embellished with light-reflecting crystals.

WATCHING Anna Wintour’s arrival to the black-cloaked coven of Fashion’s wizards and witches wonder if Christopher Bailey had stage-managed this contrast to his S/S14 show of  light, lacey, palest lilacs, peaches, and hybrid roses imaginable?

Counted among the Cartiers, the Tiffanys, the Armanis of world Fashion, for Burberry, there was no need to re-work images, or ethos, or make connections to officers in the trenches for this London Fashion Week!

Models appeared in jolly embroidered peach and pink with a grey slender belts.  The soft wool overcoat, thrown over filmy lace, is  four inches below the knee, slightly curved from the shoulders to the hem, in cream, white any number of delicious pastels.  Mortitia  Addams would be appalled!

Looking like elegant maiden aunts in wonderful perpendicular shoes everyone walked to acoustic guitar Nashville strains, surprising  choice for European post-Sloane rangers. Have cohorts of trust fund babies joined the working classes? Is the label set on more Audrey Hepburn and less Bridget Jones?

Applique blossoms,  a bit Gucci’s Autumn 2012 buttons, attached to a clear acrylic jacket, over cream short sleeved silk and a coral pencil skirt, the shape de jour, were echoed in a rose petals-falling finale.

This year the clothes are the story, rather than the dramatic reveal as darkness rolled back to show Hyde Park’s massive greenery in September 2012. Today we had Autumn’s own natural light and shimmering shades  to harmonise with looks for a returning summer.

Tired of London? – Not me!

IN town, on Tuesday, heard Audrey Hepburn’s son, Luca Dotti  speak of his family life with the broadcaster, Gianluca Longo, at the V&A. We celebrated the publication of the book ‘Audrey in Rome’, containing snapshots of Hepburn during the three decades she lived in the Italian city.

So far London Fashion Week is thrilling me, more than usual.  The clothes, the looks, the colours are Modern, again.  Not in a Givenchy, Quant way, but now more reliant on cut and drape for drama than since the 1970s.

Will see how Burberry fits into the scene  and let you know if Christopher Bailey is able to suggest the epaulettes  yet catch the moment?  I really do care. Have an unending faith in the Fashion system.  It’s a marvel.

The women who led UNICEF with her own younger son, Luca Dotti, in their garden in Rome.
The woman who led UNICEF with her own younger son, Luca Dotti, in their garden in Rome.

Privileged paradise and cyber space trenches!

AS Fashion students, VFX directors, journalists set foot on acres of soft cream plush, outside the perpendicular-tech pavilion, at Christopher Bailey’s, 2013 S/S, Burberry Prorsum show we are in a privileged paradise.

The  drama begins. Dark-suited security staff check credentials.  The tension mounts as each tiny, taupe, picnic stool is taken up and millionaires rub shoulders with the recently employed.  In a hushed dusk conversations continue.  Suddenly, pounding techno music rebounding and reverberating, throbbing through carpet, platforms and seating.

As the first model steps out on the runway, blinds, along each side of the vast venue, are slowly lowered to let in the blazing natural light.   On view outside, Kensington Gardens’ ancient trees in late splendour, predict another summer yet to come.

Sweet models express the Burberry look represented in see-through acrylic, shoulder length, capes – the new epaulettes.  Shorts, it seems, are essentials for next summer for Westwood and Bailey.   Each separate, particular, Prorsum design makes subtle reference to the Burberry archive, interpreted through recently developed colours and fabrics .

Every piece, translated through designer’s eyes, references the  status Burberry imparts in official details.  At first the capes are Burberry enough, but in homage, and  a return to the actual Trench, for the finale, Christopher Bailey delights us.  Seventeen glowing pink, purple, aqua, green, gold coats  are totally referential and especially irreverent.  Cyber princesses at the beginning of the 21st century will look beyond science-fiction in these dreams of delight.  We’ll all want one!

http://uk.burberry.com/store/shows/#/ss13-womenswear/show

http://www.hud.ac.uk/research/researchnews/fashionintheageoftheimage.php